We've been having a lot of fun teaching our Happy Hour classes every week and one thing we've noticed, Sandy Kay and I, is that there are so many ways to do different techniques that you can always learn something new (especially from one another!). For instance, the way Sandy Kay and I perform a Provisional Cast On is completely different from what you'll find on KnittingHelp.com or Knitty.
Since so many of our customers are web customers, we thought it would be a good idea to create a tutorial once a week (or so, permitting) to share the many tips and tricks we've discovered. This week we're going to show you our own unique method for Provisionally Casting On.
A Provisional Cast On is used when the cast on edge will later be picked up or worked again, such as in the Ruffled & Ruched Scarf. As I was just about to start such a scarf (for a friend), Sandy Kay and I took the opportunity to shoot this tutorial.
When working a Provisional Cast On, always use a smooth and even waste yarn. Sandy Kay prefers a cotton yarns, I prefer superwash wool. The yarn shown is Cascade 220 Superwash. The main (or "working") yarn is Shibui Baby Alpaca DK. The tutorial is embedded as a slideshow below. If you would like to see each individual image, check out our Provisional Cast On set on Flickr.
Note: our method is a variation of the traditional Long-Tail, or left-handed, Cast On.
Text instructions:
Using both yarns held together, make a slip knot.
Place the slip knot on the right knitting needle.
Using thumb and forefinger, tighten slip knot.
Place working yarn over forefinger and waste yarn over thumb.
Using the waste yarn as the "tail", twist waste yarn with thumb and place over the right needle. Continue to hold the loop in place with thumb.
Using the right needle, catch the working yarn and pull it through the waste yarn loop.
Using thumb, pull waste yarn loop up and over working yarn.
Drop waste yarn from the right needle.
Tighten the stitch using thumb to snug the waste yarn up against the needle.
Repeat from Step 5, casting on as many sts as pattern calls for. DO NOT count the waste yarn slip st from Step 1 as a stitch.
Note: when working the first row DO NOT knit the waste yarn slip knot on the first st, simply pull it off the needle at the end of the row.
Over the next couple months, we'd like to cover the following techniques:
Picking up a Provisional Cast On (that's going to be really important for the next step in the scarf!)
Sewing handknits with a sewing machine (for Skif sweaters, etc)
Sewing handknits by hand - i.e. for the Thursday vest.
Joining new yarn the quick and easy way
A whole new jogless stripe method
Casting On in the round seamlessly
Stuffing a hand-knit toy without lumps
The whole point of this series is to provide knitters with new/ different methods to complete projects. If you have a request for a tutorial, please let us know! Leave a comment or send us an email at info(at)knit-purl(dot)com. We're always glad to take suggestions and would love to know that someone out there found this useful :)
In the midst of putting together July's newsletter, tech editing the Summer Gratis Knits pattern, and updating the website, The Blogger -
(Shown above, being camera-shy, with the final draft of the new Gratis Knits)
- and I realized something terrible...
We hadn't updated The Blog in over a month.
We're overdue several articles, we know - True Plies about Habu Fique and Rowan Cotton Purelife, gossip from TNNA, No Mean Feet updates - but there's one item we've been intending to bribe our readers with for some time.
A free pattern for the Muffin Cap I made with that Fleece Artist Blue-faced Leicester roving, circa April . Several members of the staff clearly had fun trying on the second cap I made with this pattern:
Sooo, in order to whet your appetite for the next Gratis Knits, below's a free pattern (written by moi and edited by The Blogger). Until our next update, look for the new Gratis Knits (and an exciting KAL announcement) next week!
CO Cast on Kf&b Knit into front and back of st PM Place marker Rnd round St stitch K knit SM slip marker Dec decrease K2tog knit 2 together (dec one st) BO bind off
~*~*~
Pip: Using DPNs, CO 4 sts.Work in i-cord for 4 rows.
Crown increases: Rnd 1: Kf&b every st (8 sts), PM to indicate start of rnd.Switch to knitting in the rnd by placing 2 sts on each of 4 needles. Rnd 2: Kf&b every st (16 sts). Rnd 3: K around. Rnd 4: *K1, kf&b, PM* around (24 sts). Rnd 5: K around. Rnd 6: *K to 1 st before marker, kf&b, SM* across rnd (32 sts).(Note: when there are too many sts to fit on the DPNs, switch to larger circular needle) Repeat Rnds 5 – 6 another 10 (11, 12) times, until there are 112 (120, 128) sts.
Body: Continue to knit in the rnd, as established, for another 2 (2.5, 3)”.On last stockinette row, dec 4 (0, 2) sts evenly across for 108 (120, 126) sts.
Brim: Prep rnd: Using smaller circular needle, *K1, k2tog* around for a total of 72 (80, 84) sts. Rows 1 – 5: *K1, p1* around. Row 6: work *K1, p1* BO.
Finishing: Weave in ends and cinch in pip at top.Block the cap flat, smoothing out the decreases and body.Wear in cool weather!
When I first started knitting socks, one of the great names in handpainted sock yarn (this was before the indie dyer/ yarnie explosion) was Lorna's Laces. Their Shepherd Sock was spoken of with reverence and lust. Fascinated, I tried to find it locally (I lived in Eugene at the time) but no one carried it. When I finally found some whilst visiting my sister in the Bay Area, I suffered sticker shock of the worst kind. I'd had no idea sock yarn could cost so much. Hey. I was young and naive and new to sock knitting. Koigu was a painful learning experience as well. Anyway. I finally bit my lip and bought a couple of skeins, determined to do something "special". I did. My mother received these:
At the time, I enjoyed knitting with the yarn but wasn't too keen on the on the fact that I was knitting at 9 SPI (stitches per inch) since I was still a sock newbie.
But, after seeing how they've worn (like iron, y'all), I decided the yarn was definitely worth the investment again. So, a couple of weeks ago, I bought two skeins of Shepherd Sock in "Gold Hill" and decided to make up a pattern as I went:
Now, the yarn specs and I aren't quite simpatico. They say:
Fiber : 75% Superwash Wool, 25% Nylon Yardage: 196.6 m / 215 y Skein weight: 56.7 g / 2 oz Yarn weight: fingering weight Recommended gauge: 2.8 sts/cm or 7 sts/inch Recommended needle size: 2.25 mm / 1 (US)
I say this yarn needs to be knitted up at a gauge of 9 SPI (stitches per inch). But we're required to advertise the information on the label the company prints. But, really, I highly suggest sock knitters go with a denser gauge. Your socks'll last longer and be more comfortable to wear.
By last Thursday I had a sock and a half and was really, really enjoying myself...
(The Blogger also seems to have enjoyed herself taking photos)
And look at that great flashing:
The pooling, especially, of the colors and the feel of the yarn and how it looks when it knits up? I'm sold. I am so completely and utterly pwn3d. I need more. Lots more. The stash is going to be a terrifying thing when one considers how many colors of Lorna's we carry. On a completely different note, I decided to try the Crystal Palace 2.25mm/ US 1 DPNs (since I couldn't find my 1.5's at home :P) and they're wonderful. The best bamboo sock knitting needles I've ever worked with. I totally have to reevaluate my needle collection now.
True Plies: Fleece Artist Blue-faced Leicester Roving
I have to admit it. I have a problem. A big one. And working at this store ain't helping me with it.The culprit this week?
Handmaiden & Fleece Artist of Nova Scotia. In the past month we have received so much merchandise from them, we've had to create a section of the store I'm calling Little Canada.
(shown to the left)
To make matters worse, a couple weeks ago we received an enormous box of hand-painted roving. Seriously, when I say "enormous", I mean it. I could have shipped myself (and a friend) to Jamaica in that thing (actually...hmm, not a bad thought).
I managed to avoid the wicked, wicked beguiling ways of the roving until The Blogger set up a spinning display with a basket of it, and ... well, I fell off of the wagon. Two nights ago I brought home 100g of their BFL roving in the colorway "Peacock". The bronze and turquoise together called to me. So I pulled out my wheel, spun up some very fine singles, and then Navajo-plied the singles into a 3-ply/ worsted weight yarn:
My review of it? Oh, it's beautiful. Not just to ogle and pet, but to spin as well. I have to admit that I have had some pretty traumatic experiences with hand-dyed wool roving. Inexperienced dyers can accidentally felt the roving by using water that's too hot or agitating the wool as it's soaking up the dyes - which turns perfectly beautiful wool roving into rope.
Not this stuff. It was still soft and fluffy and didn't resemble hand-dyed rope at all. The roving easy pulled apart in slivers and was even easier to draft. So easy, in fact, that I managed to shock myself with how fine the single-ply yarn was. Navajo-plying it made the yarn heavier and self-striping. If I had 2-plied the yarn, it would have been a fingering weight yarn in the end. And the colors would have misched more.
All in all, I'm exceedingly pleased with it. And $16.50 for 100g of hand-painted, handspun, yarn ain't bad. Not by a long shot. Now all I have to do is knit it, once I manage to beat my coworkers away from the skein with a stick or something...
I immediately realized what a misjudgment I'd made. First of all, I wasn't entertaining myself anymore - the entire store stopped to stare at me. The staff even were mesmerized by the pretty whirling wooden thing that was making yarn. Second, I got about a dozen requests to teach an Intro to Spindling course (for knitters), which has been approved by our Fearless Leader, so look for it on the Class Schedule when everything is arranged.
Anyway, back to the pretty-pretty wool. I had also made the mistake of not considering the mesmerizing qualities of variegated roving. I didn't want to stop spindling because I wanted to see what color would come next. Even worse, my coworkers and our patrons were egging me on - so I spent half the day wandering around the floor trying to help people and spin yarn at the same time.
Since The Blogger was madly in love with the yarn I was making, I promised to give it to her if she'd write a True Plies column on knitting with it. This then sparked a discussion on how it should be plied, whether it needed to be plied?, or what it should be plied with. In the end, we decided that I would ply the thick 'n thin singles with Habu's Silk Wrapped Stainless Steel thread in dark blue. It would strengthen the yarn and also give it some sparkle:
(Bling Bling, baby)
By the end of the night (our Sip 'n Stitchers also piled on the peer pressure to finish the yarn), it had all been plied. The next day, The Blogger and I wound it into a skein and set the twist (the process of 'finishing' the yarn by soaking it in water and hanging it to dry):
After it had dried, we pulled out our very handy yarn weight tool to determine the WPI (wraps per inch) and approximate gauge. Shown below is the finished skein and the tool (Brass Yarn Gauge):
Un-scrunched, the yarn averaged 12 WPI, making it a worsted weight. I also checked the yardage of the skein the old-fashioned way - counting the number of strands in the skein, measuring the skein's length...
... and doing some multiplication. All told, the skein had about 146 yards from 50g of wool. Not too bad.
In the end I almost regretted giving away the yarn, but stood fast. It was lots of fun to spin and I really enjoyed playing with the roving. I'd definitely recommend it for any level of spinner. It'd be perfect for beginners who struggle with drafting or for really experienced spinners who want to experiment with designer yarns. Next time, I want to try the color "Fall in Vermont" (#921). It'd look really spectacular plied with Habu Textiles' Wool/ Stainless Steel in Terra Cotta, don't you think?
My great-grandmother, "Grand Mutter", had a nasty habit of mumbling idioms and now I can always remember the spirit of this scary bad-ass east Texas woman every time I think of one. Remember "Stupid is as stupid does"? How about "Whistling girls and crowing hens always come to some bad end"? Betcha never heard "Beatcha like my ugly red-headed step child" or "Snatch ya ball-headed". Yeah, that was Grand Mutter and boy was she the life of the party. The trouble is because I hear them so infrequently nowadays, they've managed to swim around in my head and copulate and I'm left befuddled with: "Idle hands are the Devil's..." What? It's particularly trying on my sanity because they always seem to come to mind during bouts of insomnia.
1 am: Idle hands are the Devil's campground. No don't do this. Go to sleep. Try some chamomile.
1:40 am: Idle hands are the Devil's toolbox. Stop it. Sleep already crazy person. Try some music. Maybe jazz.
1:52 am: Chet Baker or Leonard Cohen not Charlie Parker. Sleep making music you moron! Don't call us a moron. We can call us a moron if we want. Whatcha gonna do about it? Idle hands are the Devil's FourRunner... or is it Fore Runner? Fine. We are goin' for the big guns now: rooibos with the valerian root paired with the dulcet tones of Francoise Hardy and Claudine Longet. That'll fix it. 3:29 am: Idle hands are the Devil's... Blog! Work on the blog and how we can't sleep and... Do you want people to think we're meshuge? We're sure they've figured it out all ready. You know, we could always just use the Google-fu and look it... No! we'll remember all on our own, or we'll forget about it.
4:07 am: Idle hands are the Devil's playstation. It's not playstation... Playstation. Hmm, solitaire or maybe Brick Breaker? Idle hands are the Devil's Brick Breaker? No idiot. Maybe we should play a video game. Don't call us idiot. Play Brick Breaker. No, if we are going to play something it should be yarn. Still have that True Plies experience to blog about.
We could also tease those that read the blog with the new new new news of the "Catherine Lowe event spectacular" Yeah she's cool but she totally deserves her own post... ...devoid of the Blogger's sleepless mad rantings. Yeah, we're right. There's always the lace design work for the spring Gratis Knits to work on. Oooh!
Well it could be anything. Most importantly though, we don't care anymore. So there. Nanner, nanner, nanner. Sleep is ours at last! Is it wicked or weary? Huh? No rest for the...
One of the lovely perks of being in the receiving office of a knitting store is receiving the yarns. Especially when we get new lines of yarn, like Manos del Urugauy's new Silk Blend, a sumptuous mix of Merino and silk. But, before I get ahead of myself, here're the specs:
Fiber: 70% Merino, 30% Silk Yardage: 135 m / 150 y Skein weight: 50 g / 1.75 oz Yarn weight: DK weight Recommended gauge: 2-2.4 sts/cm or 5-6 sts/inch Recommended needle size: 3.5-4 mm / 4-6 (US)
Just like their Wool Clasica and Cotton Stria, the Merino Silk is kettle-dyed by hand to create deep, vibrant solids and variegates. Completely different from the Wool Clasica, the Merino Silk is soft enough to be used in baby garments. As much as I loved the Manos Wool Clasica to look at, knitting with it left something to be desired. For me, anyway. I know The Blogger has a deep and abiding love of Manos Clasica for felting and outwear garments.
Aside from the fact that the Merino Silk is softer than it's older siblings, it has the added benefit of being DK weight instead of worsted. While it comes in 50 g hanks and not 100g (like Clasica), they have the same yardage for nearly the same price. The only drawback I could see is that the Merino Silk is millspun, not handspun like one might expect, which is probably why it costs less than the Clasica.
Back to receiving the Silk Blend. This variegate, "Autumn", immediately caught my eye. So, as soon as it was received, i.e. in the system and ready for sale, I grabbed a hank and CO for a hat. With 150 yards to 50g and a cold head, the project choice seemed obvious.
On US 5's, with 5.5 sts & 8 rows/ inch, I CO 120 sts for my 23" head (remember to always subtract 10% for negative ease!). Enjoying the process of just knitting with the yarn, I worked the hat in stockinette for several inches. The yarn made a soft, well-draping fabric. It was hard not to stop and admire the color-changes in the yarn every row or so, I must admit. Eventually, though, I had to start the crown decreases, which The Blogger cunningly took an aerial-view photo of.
My first worry was that the yarn might pool unattractively once the number of sts changed. Thankfully, the way the yarn is dyed seems to prevent this. As you can see, the yarn didn't stripe either (another problem I find with some hand-painted yarns). In the end, I finished with some yarn to spare. Not much, but enough to prevent panic.
Of course, the first thing I did was put it on my head. Then I wove in the ends and examined the FO more closely:
After an experimental "sqoosh" or two, I put it back on my head. What can I say? I like my hat.
I also really like the yarn. It was a pleasure to knit with, and I definitely want to use it again in the future. Aside from hats, it would be great for baby clothes, mitt(en)s and scarves. In the pattern book that came with the yarn, Primera, there are also several gorgeous adult sweaters I might be tempted to try.
This just might be my new favorite yarn for next winter.
Jamiesons of Shetland has been producing Shetland wool yarns for over a hundred years. Mostly known for their Jamiesons' Shetland Books, I have to admit I never considered using the yarn for anything but Fair Isle or cable work. On a lark, I decided to try out their Spindrift yarn, one of the more popular Jamiesons lines. I wish I had been fast enough to finish the project I started with it, but at least it's halfway done.
Realizing I needed another pair of mitts, I bought two balls of the yarn in the color "Mulberry" (at $5.00 for 115 yds/ 105 m, it wins the economics award) and CO the first of another pair of Campanula Mitts. While it is intended to be worked at 7.5 sts/ inch on US 3 needles when knitting Fair Isle or cables, I decided it'd look grand in lace work on US 5's. Turns out I wasn't wrong (for once):
The yarn is crisp (gives good-to-great stitch definition) and has a nice loft (it's well-plied and airy). Since I've mostly spun my own Shetland wool before this experiment, it was interesting to start with the yarn already made. A lot easier, too.
One thing I did miss was the fact that when spinning from fleeces you can pick out the finer wool (from the Shetland Sheep's neck) and use it separately for lace and baby garments. This yarn was probably a mix of the entire sheep's fleece, and thus an average of the different parts of the coat.
Still, it was rather soft for an unblended rustic sheep and quite pleasant to knit with. All in all I really liked working with it - the plies didn't split, it didn't break or crackle at all, and it's also colorfast (notice the pink stains on my Brittany's? Those came from something that wasn't colorfast).
Last night I finished the first of my Campanula Mitts, wove in the ends (this yarn is nice and "sticky", so I think the ends won't pop out), and blocked it with a steam iron. It went from being kinky and scaly (we all know how awful unblocked lace looks) to something I would proudly wear in public:
I wish I could have gotten a better picture of the first mitt, but I'm sure the idea is expressed. The yarn blocked beautifully. That there next to the mitt and yarn is the second mitt (not a Brillo Pad) that I cast on this morning. At the rate I've been knitting on this (and every other project I have OTN), I might actually finish them before the end of the month.
My review, in the end? I like this yarn. And while I wouldn't recommend it for baby garments, it would be fantastic for outerwear and, you guessed it, socks (it's not super wash, but that's beside the point). I'm definitely going to keep it in mind for future projects. Maybe one day I shall even attempt Autumn Rose.
Our Very Special Yarn column is on hiatus until the project I'm knitting with it is done. Sorry, I'm a slower knitter than expected...
True Plies: MY Top 5 (Coolest & Most) Essential Tools of the Trade
Aside from yarn and needles, there are a few items any knitter will need to keep on stitching away blissfully. Ignoring the standards, like tape measurers and needle gauges, let's look at some other less known but extremely useful bits and bobs created to save our collective sanity. Some may argue with the products I chose, but this is my column and we all know I'm right anyway.
1. The KA Mini Cro-Hook
I love this thing with a deep and abiding devotion. Only 2" long and perfectly useful for a million tasks (picking up stitches, crocheting edges, seaming, etc), this is THE SPIFFIEST new knitting tool I've found. It also comes with it's own plastic pouch, to protect it from nicks and suchlike. Since it's so teeny-tiny, it can fit in any project bag and won't take up room better used to store yarn.
2. Clover lock-ring stitch markers
O', little plastic locking stitch markers, how I love thee. Let me count the ways. For thou art:
fantastic stitch markers for any project.
perfect to identify other important project details - pattern repeats, rows, shaping, you name it.
invaluable in placing buttons.
also be useful in lieu of buttons (just guess how I figured that one out).
wonderfully contained in a sturdy pouch.
Truly, thou art the epitome of stitch-markerdom.
3. Boxy Project Bags
I used to be one of Those knitters. Unhappy with my traveling projects because I was constantly losing DPNs, pulling out tangled birds' nests from my backpack, and just having a Bad Time of it. Then I discovered project bags. Put your knitting and toys in a bag within your purse/ messenger bag/ backpack and voila! No more snares, missing needles or puncture marks in your Physics homework. After a couple of years worth of experimenting I have found:
Boxy is better - more space and it's trendy to boot.
Closed is essential, an open bag (without zipper or snaps) will end in the same trauma as having no bag at all.
Snaps or buttons are less hassle than zippers, but all are better than none (see above).
A wrist-strap is priceless. Aside from giving you the option of knitting while walking/ jogging/ chasing sheep, it also offers something to grab.
Less is more. Honestly, are you really going to want a project bag big enough for a sweater? Remember, your project bag has to be able to fit inside your purse/ messenger bag/ backpack.
My own preferences are to the Lantern Moon Diamon-Drop bags and the Misocrafty wrist bags - both are large enough to carry a small to medium sized project (socks, hat, scarf) and fulfil all my realistic* project bag needs.
4. SnipIt Scissors
Many knitters (and knitting-product reviewers) prefer the Clover Yarn Cutter Pendant, but I'm an old-fashioned stickler to scissors. Aside from appreciating such a purely human feat of engineering, they're more adaptable to different jobs - good luck steeking with that pendant. And these scissors fold up to prevent snaring or poking holes in anything nearby.
5. The Clover Chibi
Chibi means "little one" in Japanese. Just like the KA mini cro-hook, this is a small, affordable and completely indispensable tool. Or toy, depending on how you look at it. I store all types of needles in mine - sewing needles for buttons, various embroidery needles, and the standard tapestry needles for knitting. Once you get one of these, you'll get attached to how functional and, well, cute it is!
So those are my Top 5 toys to keep any knitter sane. Try 'em out and prove me wrong, I have a hard time imagining anyone not loving one of these products!
*Yes, I do have a secret wish for Hermione Granger's magical ability to store anything and everything in a handbag.
The products up for review this week? Six different brands of DPNs used for sock knitting. Admittedly, Knit Purl doesn't carry most of these needles, but they all deserve to be reviewed just the same. The ones with asteriks* are brands we offer for sale. To keep this fair and unbiased, we'll look at each of these products in alphabetical order.
Brittany Birch 5" DPNs
I like these needles because they're made in California, using sustainably harvested Birch wood. They come in 3 lengths and a variety of sizes. For the purposes of this review, we're going to focus on the sock sizes (US 0 - 3). Personally, I don't use the smaller gauge Brittany needles for socks. I tend to knit tightly and worry incessantly about breaking them. But, I love the smoothness, softness, and ecological qualities of this product and use them for lace and baby garments instead. I must admit that the Brittany's are guaranteed, without exception, for 10 years. And have known more than one knitter to take advantage of their exchange policy. That said, Brittany DPNs can only be a good investment.
Clover Bamboo 5" DPNs
These needles are perfect for wooden needle enthusiasts. Smooth but not slick and incredibly durable (don't ask how I know this), these are great for beginning sock knitters and the more experienced who prefer to take things slowly. The type of bamboo the company uses tends to be very strong and withstands most attempts at bending or warping (you don't want to know how I know that either). Clover DPNs come in 2 different lengths, 5" and 7". For sock knitting, I prefer the shorter needles, but know of some sock knitters that like the longer needles. To each their own.
Direct from the Japan, as well, these needles are tough but a little more springy than their Clover cousins. While Crystal Palace offers two DPN lengths, the 8" needles aren't feasible for sock knitting in my experience. Maybe Christmas stockings... Anyway, I really like the fact that these are slicker and have a more tapered point than the Clovers. I'd have to recommend these for intermediate sock knitters, just because of how slippery they can be.
Kinki Amibari Bamboo 6" DPNs
KA needles are different from the Crystal Palace and Clover lines. These are definitely my favorite bamboo needles of all time. But, be warned, they're very slick and incredibly pointy. I've gotten wounded from these things. They come in 3 lengths but, like the Crystal Palace DPNs, only one length (6") is useful to sock knitters. They're made from 3 select breeds of Japanese bamboo that don't have to be polished or varnished, and for good reason since varnish would probably slow these speed-demons down. My only complaint with them is how bendy these are and, for tight knitter, easy to permanently warp.
Knit Picks Nickel-plated 6" DPNs
Shiny and sharp. Specially designed for sock knitters at 6" long, these are niiice. There are 8" DPNs available, but only in larger gauges. Very much like a metal version of the KA's, these are great for speedy knitters who don't worry about dropping stitches. Still, I'd recommend a point protector for these, so they don't poke holes in your knitting bag!
Elegant and stylish, these are the luxury needles of the knitting world. Handmade by a Vietnamese co-op, using only the finest materials, Sox Stix are more than worth their elevated price. I've met many a knitter who has sworn off all other DPNs but their Lantern Moon beauties. The only concern I can relate is for tight knitters, these lovelies can and will snap. Luckily, Lantern Moon guarantees all their products and will exchange any faulty merchandise, free of charge. These needles will always be worthwhile, when one considers the quality and economic factors of the company that makes them.
As you can see, there are many, many options available to sock knitters. In fact, I only touched on the more common and popular needles intentionally. If I hadn't... well, just imagine how long this review would have been! Rest assured, each of these needles is a good buy and they will serve you well - so long as you take into consideration your wants and needs.
Happy knitting!
Next week?, I'll let you know how I'm liking a Very Special Yarn.
Note to last column's readers: the needles I'm using are size US 1/ 2.5mm 6" DPNs (Knit Picks brand, actually). The yarn is fine but not too fine, I think, for socks and knits up comfortably at 8 sts/ inch like many other sock yarns.
True Plies: ShibuiKnits Sock
They say you should write what you know, and I do know about knitting socks (next week: the needles). I have knitted with this sock yarn almost incessantly, since we keep ShibuiKnits yarn in stock as much as we can. Who can resist? So, here it goes... The specs? Well, I was amazed to find out earlier this week that the yarn base is NOT, in fact, Louet Gems. Yes, read that again. Despite having been told by many people that it was, it isn't. I was pleased to find out that the yarn is specially milled in Peru (ultra-fine merino superwash) and then hand-dyed in Peru (ETA: Silk Cloud and Silk Puff are dyed in the US). Wow, I knew I liked this stuff for a reason. Anyway, back to the yarn specs:
Fiber: 100% superwash merino wool
Skein weight: 1.75 oz / 50 g
Yardage: 191 yd / 175 m
Yarn weight: fingering weight
Recommended gauge: 30 sts = 4"
Recommended needle size: 2 (2.75 mm) (US)
Now, I don't agree with the recommended gauge or needle size - but I'm a sock freak who thinks sock yarn should always be knit tighter than what the ball-band calls for. Religiously, I aim for 8 sts and 12 rows/ inch with Sock on size US 1/ 2.5 mm needles.
It would probably take me hours to track down all the projects I've knit (or received) with ShibuiKnits Sock, so here's just a taste:
Jaywalkers knit with "Spectrum"
Baudelaire knit with "Orchid"
My most recent Sock FO was a pair of Autumnal Socks that I would wear everyday, if I could. I have a stash of this stuff that is slightly frightening and that demands attention frequently. It's nearly as bad as the Smooshy in that regard (but that's another post).
All in all, I have to recommend this stuff for quite a few reasons. It's:
Hand-dyed, in a world of machine-dyed yarns
Specially-milled and super-soft
Machine washable AND dryable (ask me how I know this)
Doesn't have to be used for just socks, because it's 100% superwash merino wool with no nylon.
I have to admit that I was a bit annoyed about 6 months ago, as the demand for Sock exceeded production and I couldn't get certain favorite colors. Since they've fixed that problem now...the more Sock addicts in the world, the merrier.
And before you ask: yes, I do have a pair of ShibuiKnits socks in progress - my January Mystery Socks. Loving the Pagoda, which is odd for me since I tend to hate orange.
After some lengthy plotting brainstorming, the Blogger and I have decided to organize the blog. From now on, once a week every week(note to self), I shall present to you a very special review column, "True Plies".
About?, you ask. Knitting. Books, yarns, needles, and patterns. And now, without further "adieu", let's get started...
True Plies: New Kureyon Steps Up
by Sara Morris
Like many sock knitters before me, I had vowed not to knit with the Kureyon sock yarn. Previous encounters with Noro had left me a little disappointed. Until I saw the yarn in person, that is. You may recall that the yarn arrived on the day of the very first meeting of Knit/ Purl's Sock Knitters. The stars must have aligned or the Knitting Muse simply has a wicked sense of humor.
While receiving and displaying the new yarn, the prospect of Kureyon-colored socks wore me down. I snuck over to the display and quickly sqooshed it, the yarn didn't feel too scratchy. Thus defeated, I took home a ball that night and CO a swatch a couple of days later. The swatch went quickly and soon I was looking for a pattern and a recipient - handwash ONLY socks don't fit within my lifestyle, unfortunately. But both were found and a new pair of socks was started.
My review? I can't tell you yet how well the yarn will wear, but I have my suspicions. 30% nylon sounds promising. In many ways Kureyon sock reminds me of our old friend, Trekking. Durable, vibrant, and a little rough. I don't mind the slight roughness too much, but some knitters or wearers might. The fact that the yarn is single-ply doesn't worry me either. This yarn, like other Noro yarns, has been fulled a bit to keep it in shape. It shouldn't cause any problems on that account.
And, of course, the colorways are enough to make most knitters drool. The color repeats are a little longer than Trekking, but maybe about the same length as some Opal or Regal sock yarns. Just as you're about to get bored with one color, another one starts.
All in all, I'm quite pleasantly surprised by the yarn. My only, minor, complaint would be the occasional VM (vegetable matter) spun in with the ply. But that's common with in many brands of yarn and, well, it tells you that there was actually a sheep involved in the making of this yarn at some point in time. As much as it annoyed me at first, I have to admit that it is comforting in a way. And I can tug the rare twig or leaf out as I go, in any case.
Sooo, in this humble sock knitter's opinion, Noro Kureyon Sock gets 8 out of 10 happy toes. Not bad for a yarn I refused to touch at first!
