Just forget Death by Chocolate

We've got the new way to overdose through decadence with the new Staccato, by ShibuiKnits. Can I just say, "Yum!"? 

Is that a technical term? 'Cause it really should be.  I mean, look at it:

No, wait, you should touch it.  The fiber content, just FYI, is 65% Superwash Merino, 30% Silk, 5% Nylon.  I played with a skein and made an a-MAZE-ing sock with it in the Ivory...

Which, unfortunately, I cannot show you just yet.  Patience, though, shall be rewarded.  I did, however, buy two skeins of Staccato in Cotton Candy last night...

For some fun and flirty socks.  There might be a few discreet ruffles involved.  It's tempting me to go ultra-fem.  Must be the combination of the pink and the silk.

But don't be limited by my madness.  Take a minute and imagine the possibilities.  Like, oh, Connie Chang Chinchio's new Geodesic Cardigan:

(from the latest KnitScene)

Or, how about Hannah Fettig's best-selling Featherweight Cardigan?

I know I'm tempted, anyway.  They'd be fantastic Spring knits and would only take 5 - 10 skeins of Staccato. 

Shop talk.  My goodness, lots has been happening around here.  We have quite a few new yarn lines in (see above, below, and the last post!), several new patterns and, well, a flurry of activity.  Just wait for the next Newsletter, it's gonna be a doozy.

Anyway.  Onto vicarious knitting.  I convinced Jenny (our graphic designer) to share her in-progress Man Glove (remember her New Year's Resolution?), which is nearing completion:

For the inquiring mind, the yarn is Joseph Galler Prime Alpaca in "Mist Grey".  The pattern is vintage, which vintage we don't know, but I'd guess the 40's.  It's lookin' good, right?  We're trying to encourage Jenny, so feel free to leave comments!  We'll make sure she gets them.

Next, well, this also involves another New Year's Resolution.  Amazingly, Lindsay is managing to both fulfill and break her resolution in one go.  Lindsay is taking Judy Wilcox's Two Socks on Two Circulars class and has fallen mad in love with the technique.  In fact, she just bought another skein of sock yarn, Madelinetosh Glazed Sock in "Violin", to cast on another pair...

Which she plans to have to the heel (along with the green pair above - Shibui Sock in Seaweed) by the next class on Sunday.  I see a wicked addiction in the making.  But, call me callous, I'm sick of being the only sock addict on staff, so I'm not saying anything. 

Oh, alright, I did tease her a bit.  Feel free to leave comments, she'll definitely see them!

Lastly, we have an overwhelmingly huge new selection of Rowan yarns in the store.  They're not on the web yet, but they will be soon.  The additions include new colors of Denim, Summer Tweed and All Seasons Cottons.  Also in the photography box is the new Purelife Revive, which is an awesome thing (recycled silk, recycled cotton, and recycled rayon).

Expect to see these beauties on the website in a couple of weeks.

And, before I go, here's a super-cute Jake & Co. photo:

Just because.

Gratis Knits: Fall 2009

Asymmetrical Cabled Collar
by Sara Morris
(this pattern is also available as a PDF)

Sizes:
13.5" long by 4" high on narrow end and 6" high on wide end.

Yarn:
1 skein of ShibuiKnits Merino Alpaca (131 yds / 120m per 3.5 oz / 100g skein)

Needles:
5.5mm/ US 9 needles

Gauge:
20 sts/ 26 rnds = 4" in St st (in the rnd)

Notions:
1” button
Tapestry needle
Cable needle


Abbreviations:

BO – bind off
CO - cast on
C4f – cable 4 sts front (slip 2 sts onto cable needle, hold in front, k2, k2 off of cable needle)
K - knit
K2tog - knit 2 together
P - purl
Pf&b - purl into the front and back of the stitch
Ssk – slip, slip, knit 2 sts together through back
St(s) - stitch(es)
YO – yarn over
W&t – wrap & turn

--------------------------------------------------------

Directions:

CO 72 sts.
Rows 1 & 3: K6, *p2, k4, (p2, k2) twice* four times, p2, k4, p2, k2.
Rows 2 & 4: P2, k2, p4, k2, *(p2, k2) twice, p4, k2* four times, p6.
Row 5: K6, *p2, c4f, (p2, k2) twice* four times, p2, c4f, p2, k2.
Row 6: P2, k2, p4, k2, p2, k2, p2, w&t.
Row 7: K2, p2, k2, p2, k4, p2, k2.
Row 8: P2, k2, p4, k2, p2, w&t.
Row 9: K2, p2, k4, p2, k2.
Row 10: P2, k2, p4, w&t.
Row 11: c4f, p2, k2.
Row 12: P2, k2, p4, k2, *(p2, k2) twice, p4, k2* four times, p6. [On this row knit the wraps together with their sts]
Rows 13 - 17: repeat rows 1 - 5.
Row 18: P2, k2, p4, k2, *(p2, k2) twice, p4, k2* four times, p6.
Row 19: K6, *p2, k4, (p2, k2) twice* four times, p2, k2og, yo, ssk, p2, k2.
Row 20: P2, k2, p1, pf&b into yo from previous row, p1, k2, *(p2, k2) twice, p4, k2* four times, p6.
Row 21: K6, *p2, k4, (p2, k2) twice* four times, p2, k4, p2, k2.
Row 22: P2, k2, p4, k2, *(p2, k2) twice, p4, k2* four times, p6.
Row 23: K6, *p2, c4f, (p2, k2) twice* four times, p2, c4f, p2, k2.
Rows 24 - 30: repeat rows 6 - 12.
Row 31 - 35: repeat rows 1 - 5.
Row 36: P2, k2, p4, k2, *(p2, k2) twice, p4, k2* four times, p6.
Row 37: K6, *p2, k4, (p2, k2) twice* four times, p2, k4, p2, k2.
Row 38: BO all sts in pattern LOOSELY.

Finishing:

Weave in ends. Block into proper dimensions and to straighten short rows. Sew button in place.

Gratis Knits: Winter 2009

Better late than never, right? Ar this point, we're accepting submissions for the next Gratis Knits, due to come out in April, so please consider sending a pattern our way. Now, without further adieu, get your needles ready!

Flurries Slouch Hat
By Sandy Bingham
(this pattern is also available as a PDF)

Sizes:
Adult M (22” head circumference)

Yarns:
MC: The Fibre Company Road to China [65% Alpaca, 10% Cashmere, 10% Camel, 5% Yak, 10% Soya Fiber, 73m/ 80y per 50g skein]; color: “Light Amethyst”; 1 skein.
CC: Tilli Tomas Flurries [100% Merino wool with glass beads, 64m/ 70y per 50g skein]; color: “Atmosphere”; 1 skein.

Needles:
•3.75mm/ US 5 circular needle, 16” long
•4.5mm/ US 7 circular needle, 16” long
•4.5mm/ US 7 DPNs, 8” long set of 5

Gauge:
19 sts & 24 rnds = 4” in St st on larger needles

Notions:
•row counter
•stitch marker
•scissors
•tapestry needle

Notes:
Do not cut yarn when changing colors. Carry the unused color up the inside of the hat and catch it on the first st of the sixth rnd of the current color. Knit the first few stitches after the color changes tightly to prevent holes, being careful not to pucker the work.

Abbreviations:
CO - cast on
CC - contrast color
K - knit
K2tog - knit 2 together
MC - main color
P - purl
PM - place marker
Rnd - round(s)
St(s) - stitch(es)

Rib pattern (multiple of 3 sts):
Rnd 1: *K2, p1* around.
Rnd 2: *K1, p2* around.
Repeat these 2 rnds for pattern.

Stockinette: (in the rnd)
Every rnd: k around.


PATTERN

Brim:
CO 102 sts with MC using smaller needles. Join in the round, being careful not to twist sts. PM to indicate start of rnd.

Work “Rib Pattern” for 1.5”.

Body:
Change to larger needles and knit 6 rnds of Stockinette with CC. Alternate MC and CC every 6 rnds for a total of 6 stripes (36 rnds), ending with a MC stripe. Switch to CC to begin crown shaping.

Shape Crown:
Shape crown as follows while continuing to alternate MC and CC every 6 rnds:

Rnd 1: *K4, K2tog* around. (85 sts total)
Rnds 2 - 4: K around.
Rnd 5: *K3, K2tog* around. (68 sts total)
Rnds 6 - 8: K around.
Rnd 9: *K2, K2tog* around. (51 sts total)
Rnds 10 -12: K around.
Rnd 13: *K1, K2tog* around. (34 sts total)
Rnds 14 -15: K around.
Rnd 16: *K2tog* around. (17 sts total)

Cut working yarn leaving a 6” tail, use tapestry needle to pull tail through remaining sts and cinch tight.

Finishing:
Weave in ends, block lightly.

Gratis Knits: Fall 2008

Presto Sock-O
By Noelle Miller

Sizes:
Woman’s M, 8” foot circumference (Man’s M, 9” foot circumference)

Yarn:
Koigu KPPPM – 1 (2) skein(s) each in P143D (MC) and 1170 (CC)

Needles:
Set of 5 2.00mm/ US 0 DPNs, or size to get gauge

Gauge:
8 sts = 1”

Notions:

• row counter
• stitch markers
• scissors
• darning needle

Notes:

• If substituting colors, select a semi-solid shade that is echoed as one of the colors in the multi skein. This will help to blend the stripes for the intended effect.
• Do not cut yarn when changing colors. Carry the unused color up the inside of the sock and catch it on the first stitch of the fourth round of the current color. Knit the first few stitches after the color changes very tightly to prevent holes, being careful not to pucker the work.

Abbreviations:

CO - cast on
CC - contrast color
k - knit
k2tog - knit 2 together
MC - main color
p - purl
p/u & k - pick up and knit
p2tog - purl 2 together
PM - place marker
Rnd - round(s)
sl - slip
SM - slip marker
ssk - slip, slip, knit
st(s) - stitch(es)

“K2, p2 rib”: (in the rnd)
Every rnd: *k2, p2* around.

Stockinette: (in the rnd)
Every rnd: k around.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Cuff:
Using MC, CO 64 (72) sts. Join to work in the rnd, being careful not to twist.
Work in “k2, p2 rib” for 10 (12) rnds.

Leg:
Attach CC and work in Stockinette with [2 rnds CC, 6 rnds MC] 5 (6) times for a total of 40 (48) rnds. Knit 32 (36) with CC.

Heel flap:
Worked over 32 (36) sts with CC as follows:
Row 1 (RS): sl 1, k0 (2), [k1, sl 1, k2 , p1] 6 times, end k1 (3).
Row 2 (WS): sl 1, p1 (3), k1, [p4, k1] 5 times, end p4 (6).
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for a total of 32 (36) rows.

Turn heel:
Row 1: with CC, sl 1, k17 (19), ssk, k1. Turn.
Row 2: Sl 1, p5, p2tog, p1. Turn.
Subsequent two rows: *Sl 1, k to 1 st before gap, ssk, k1. Turn. Sl 1, p to 1 st before gap, p2tog, p1, turn.* Repeat between * until all sts have been worked: 18 (20) sts total.

Gussets:
With CC: p/u & k 18 (20) sts along first side of heel flap [16 (18) sl sts + 1 st on either side to prevent gaping], PM, k 32 (36) sts across top of foot, PM, p/u & k 18 (20) sts along other side of heel flap, k 9 (10) sts across bottom of heel. PM to indicate beginning of round.

Work set-up rnd: k 9 (10) remaining sts across bottom of heel, k to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1, SM k across top of foot, SM, k1, ssk, k to end of rnd. Work remainder of foot in stripe pattern as follows (starting at the top):

1 row CC
5 rows MC
3 rows CC
5 rows MC
4 rows CC
4 rows MC
4 rows CC
4 rows MC
5 rows CC
3 rows MC
5 rows CC
3 rows MC
6 rows CC
2 rows MC
6 rows CC
2 rows MC
work remaining rows in CC

Continue gussets:
Rnd 1: k all sts.
Rnd 2: k to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1, SM, k across top of foot, SM, k1, ssk, k to end of rnd.
Repeat Rnds 1 and 2 until 64 (72) sts remain.

Foot: continue in Stockinette until sock is 2” shorter than desired foot length, while continuing to follow the stripe pattern.

Toe:
Rnd 1: *k to 3 sts before marker, ssk, k2, k2tog, repeat once from *, k to end of round.
Rnd 2: k all sts.
Repeat rnds 1 and 2 until 20 (28) sts remain. Graft toe using Kitchener Stitch.

Finishing:
Cut yarn and weave in ends. Wear and be merry!

A Rock Star and the News

Where to begin... there is just so much news on the yarnfront... Mind you it's not good news. Tragic news is the best word to describe it actually. The best way to take the sting out a bit is to sandwich the news between some happy news.

Happy news: we have a rockstar in our midst and her name is Esther Hynes. Since Esther lives in California we do not have a current photo of her. I imagine she looks like this. Here is a picture of her with her sister.

As you know, rockin' is a tough job. You're traveling to the next gig, eating food on the road, and you need to make sure you look hot for the next show. You just wore the black lacy outfit at the last show and you'd like to bring out something colorful for that very special groupie you've had your eye on. Something like this:









The "Butterfly Poncho" from Knits from a Painter's Palette. It can be worn in two different ways making the costume changes between sets easy.

















You would really like to wear the "Kimono Jacket" that Maie Landra designed in the Vogue Anniverary issue, but you've been knitting for one year and you are only 25% done:


It uses a crazy amount of Koigu, but the color change keeps you entertained and the blues and greens really makes the color of your eyes pop. Perhaps you can finish on the way to your next gig in Portland. Yeah, 'cuz you're a Barracuda.

------------------


Now for somber news: in May the Malabrigo factory had a fire.

(Told you the news was tragic.) We will take the sharp inhalation of breath as a response similar to our own. We are sick. Pit-of-the-stomach-stabbing-pain sick.

The good news is the mill is still running, but because they are in Uruguay and have to deal with Uruguian bureaucracy, they haven't even been given the okay (as yet) to return to rebuild the warehouse, or start dyeing again.



The delay means any Malibrigo yarn available in the store right now is all we can get. All of it. I want Lace Baby in "Amoroso" for my next SKIF project, but it's not gonna happen. We would love to get more to you but we can't. Because they can't. Because of Uraguian beaurocracy, the space-time continuum, and the Ides of March. No more.

At least, no more for awhile. The rumor mill has the first Lace Baby being available sometime in April 2009. So there you go.

------------------

Now even more somber news (anyone need a therapist yet?): In keeping with the theme of rumors, or fires, or Pit-of-the-stomach-stabbing-pain we are loathe to announce...

You might need to sit down for this...

Our good buddy Lars (good ol' Lars), of Unicorn Book Publishing, told us the news...

We are loathe to announce: the warehouse fire that destroyed the master copies of Poetry in Stitches.

Yeah that's gonna sting for a bit. Try some aloe or some antibiotic ointment.


Can you even believe it? It seems getting a copy of this book is like trying to kill a windmill. So, the first editions that those smart knitters have (The Blogger is not one of them) is like gold, wrapped in platinum and coated in diamonds.


Eventually there will be more. For everyone who signed up on our list (all those names we painstakingly recorded) do not worry. We plan on making big announcements when we hear more about the return of the book. Just keep us updated on your shipping address if we are to mail your copy to you.

------------------

After all that gut-wrenching pain, I leave you with a bit-o-pretty:

Zena.
Isn't she just divine?












I sprinkled some Catherine Lowe Alpaca in the mix and now I must have more. See the pretty plum color (as opposed to the chocolate or blueberry color)?


Knitting it in was akin to heaven.


My yarn diet is collapsing in a big way.

An Ice Cube Tray and Yarn

To start off our SKIF Knit-a-long out right, for those trapped underneath something heavy and can't make it in on Tuesday nights to hangout and get your SKIF knit on, I present to you today's topic:

Choosing yarn

I know it sounds absolutely thrilling. Right now one of you is thinking, "If I can pick out my own socks in the morning I can certainly manage choosing a yarn that I love."

Au contraire, mon frère (and mon soeur). Choosing yarn is sometimes as hard as finding that perfect bottle of soft drink to go with backyard barbecue. Would you pair Jolt cola with Brats? How about Chocolate Yoo Hoo with German style potato salad? I didn't think so.

So let us just consider for a moment the weighty (worsted-weighty) decision you are about to undertake and let's travel to the magical world of the Standard Yarn Weight System as brought to you by those wacky kids at the Craft Yarn Council of America (cue music).

The SKIF patterns are knit at gauges from 4 to 4½ stitches per inch on US needle sizes 8 or 9 (4.5 or 5 mm). If you were to create a garment from just one yarn for these patterns, you would choose a worsted (or Aran) weight yarn. In the land of yarn, this is medium weight.

However, you are no sissy. You are going to take on the full-throttle joy of knitting a SKIF International pattern for the full Monty effect so you choose multiple fine gauge yarns. (Deep in your psyche your alter ego sports a bicep tattoo that features yarn and needles with the old-time banner caption of "Balls of Silken Stainless Steel".)

Now here comes the perplexing part: how do you find fine gauge yarns to equal a worsted weight?

Think of the worsted weight in terms of its parts (I won't use the word fraction here because as I think about typing it I hear cogs grinding and springs sproinging in the collective minds of the math-phobic masses). Think of worsted weight yarn like an ice cube tray! As illustrated here:

Does your brain-machine feel better now?
Worsted weight yarn is composed of many skinny yarns called plies just like the tray is composed of several little ice cubbyholes (what else can you call the individual hole that makes ice other than a cubicle? I already lost half of our two readers with the math reference. I don't want to loose the other one with office-speak). Most worsted weight yarns are about 8-ply. About is a very important word. Sometime the crafty mill-mongrels will make really pretty worsted yarn that is single-ply, double-ply, and whatnot. But for illustration purposes we shall pretend all worsted weight yarn is the same and is made from 8 plies. As we have taken the trolley to the land of make believe, we shall also pretend lace weight yarns equal a single ply.

Worsted = 8 plies
Lace = 1 ply
Ergo 8 strands lace = 1 worsted yarn.

HURRAY! Whoopee! Yay we did it!

Not so fast my young Padawan. We used a word of infinite magical power. We used the word: about. The reality is yarn is made by madmen, purchased by the insane, beloved by the stark-raving mad, and coveted by the crazier-than-owning-three-vacuums (I fall into the last category... none of them work properly either but that's a story for another day). Due to this unhinged quality in the world of knitting, you might find that seven, six, or even five strands of lace can equal a worsted weight yarn. You may decide you aren't feeling the lace weight love and want to use sport or double knitting (DK) weight yarn. How do you manage that?

You let go of the control and dare to imagine:

Lace = 1-2 ply
Fingering = 2-3 plies
Sport = 3-4 plies
DK = 4-5 plies

Your head might be swimming at this point. Take the edge off with some fresh yarn stash enhancement. Don't worry we'll wait.

So now that you have some fresh stash, the next thing you do is prune some of your old stash-beast to go with it. Take those single skeins that you bought "just because" and those leftover skeins and sort them by color. Pick your favorite color(s) then sort that pile by animal/vegetable. Anything that is the hair from an animal goes into one pile and everything else (including silk) goes in the other. If you have a blend use the primary fiber as a guideline. Choose the yarns that seem to go best together, but make sure you choose a some of each: animal, vegetable, smooth, and textured yarns. The combination you choose will make your garment completely unique. If all this gives you a headache, don't fret. Tomorrow's post will show you examples of how to blend and mix your yarns together.

Until then lets see some examples from real live coworkers:

Fyberduck is using Joseph Galler's Inca Cotton in Ecru for "Neptune".

Inca Cotton=Worsted weight=8plies

Here is a great example of the use of the word about. Below is "Martha" in Tsumugi Silk Combo carried with doubled Sea Silk by SandyKay:

Tsumugi Silk Combo=Fingering Weight=3plies
Doubled Sea Silk= Doubled Lace Weight=2plies x 2

That's crazy! SandyKay is making her's with 7plies! Aaaaaaa!!!! Panic! Panic!

Feel better? Did you get it out of your system? There's no need to panic because she's getting gauge so there is no need to worry.

This one is a whole bucket of crazy... like owning-three-vacuums crazy:

I have taken my stash apart and grabbed all the silly little leftover balls of lace weight mohair and sock yarn and added some Tsumugi Silk and Bamboo from Habu, Flaxen, and Alpaca 1 for my Zena. Who knows, the urge to buy more yarn might come on me again and I might just add something else.

The patterns require anywhere from a pound to a pound and a half (.5 to .6 kilo) of blended yarn. In terms of yardage (or meter-age for the rest of the world) that is approximately 890-1350 yards (815-1230 meters).

The nice thing about the patterns are they emphasize and encourage knitters to just go with the flow and think of the experience like a Sous chef thinks of cooking: blend, mix, experiment. Some of the tips offered in the patterns are: "Be glad when the shop runs out of your dye lot" and "Keep switching yarns the whole way through".

Think of it as an opportunity for anarchy.

For those of you Anarchists out there who want to post pictures and progress on your own SKIF knit, write a blog post on this all inclusive blog: skifkal dot blogspot dot com!

Gratis Knits: Summer 2008

Hello friends. I'd like to introduce you to a lovely woman by the name of...

well to enhance her burgeoning fame, let us now call her:

Fabulous Farrah.(bling bling)
How I wish I had the mad-skills to make little diamond-dust sparkles erupt as you read her name. I can only manage a meager (bling bling).

Fabulous Farrah (bling bling), designed the Basket Weave Baby Hat for the wee ones of the world. Her original design was created out of Cascade 220 (my personal favorite work-horse yarn) but Fyberduck and I found the hat is just as elastic (great for growing noggins) in Rowan's All Season's Cotton.


For those not familiar with the blog, each quarter we in blog-land will rifle through submissions from you and post a free pattern to our readers (all two of you). In return the person whose submission was chosen receives (drumroll):

An Authentic Knit Purl gift card loaded (with our meager budget) to the hilt with gauranteed real, fifty American dollars!


That's right friends. No Samoleans, Whozits, Manants, or homemade coupons for free foot massages here. Real money to buy yarn.


That kind of added purchase power is like a drug. It makes people giddy with happiness. So much so that they are moving so fast they are blurry in photographs.


Also included is street cred folks. Without it (as we all know) you can't "throw down" in a Westside Story-esque Knit-off. People won't have documented proof of your mad skills, yo dawg!

Congratulations Fabulous Farrah(bling bling)!
Without further ado:

Basket Weave Baby Hat
By Farrah Weinert(bling bling)

Size:
Infant (Toddler)
[14” (16”) head circumference]

Yarn:
1 ball each of 2 colors of Rowan Cotton Purelife (100% Organic Cotton, 120m / 131y per 50g ball)
Colors shown: 986 (grey), 981 (white)

Supplies:
2 circular needles Size 3.25mm/ US3 (16”, 20”, or 24” will work) OR
Set of 5 3.25mm/ US3 DPNs
Tapestry needle

Gauge:
36 sts & 32 rows = 4” in “Basket Weave Pattern” (after blocking)
24 sts & 32 rows = 4” in st st

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

K2, P2 Rib: (multiple of 4 sts)
Every rnd: *K2, P2* around.

Basket Weave Pattern: (multiple of 12 sts)

Rnds 1 & 2: (K10, P2) around
Rnds 3 & 4: (K2, P6, K2, P2) around
Rnds 5 & 6: (K10, P2) around
Rnds 7 & 8: (K4, P2, K6) around
Rnds 9 & 10: ([P2, K2] twice, P4) around
Rnds 11 & 12: (K4, P2, K6) around

Abbreviations:

MC Main color
CC Contrast color
DPN Double-pointed needle
CO Cast on
K Knit
P Purl
Sts Stitches
Rnd Round
K2tog Knit 2 sts together

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Brim:
With MC and first needle, CO 84 sts. Divide evenly between needles and join in rnd being careful not to twist sts.
Work in “K2, P2 Rib” for 1” (1 ½)”. [For a brim that folds up, work in rib for 2 ½” (3)”.]

Hat Body:
Work in Basket Weave Pattern” for 2”.
Change to CC and continue in pattern for 1”.

Crown Shaping:

Rnd 1: (K12, K2tog) around
Rnds 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12: K around
Rnd 3: (K11, K2tog) around
Rnd 5: (K10, K2tog) around
Rnd 7: (K9, K2tog) around
Rnd 9: (K8, K2tog) around
Rnd 11: (K7, K2tog) around
Rnd 13: (K6, K2tog) around
Rnd 14: (K5, K2tog) around
Rnd 15: (K4, K2tog) around
Rnd 16: (K3, K2tog) around
Rnd 17: (K2, K2tog) around
Rnd 18: (K1, K2tog) around
Rnd 19: K2tog around

Finishing:
Break yarn, leaving a 10” tail. Using the tapestry needle, draw tail through the remaining sts. Draw tight and weave in ends. Block lightly.

Muffin Top

In the midst of putting together July's newsletter, tech editing the Summer Gratis Knits pattern, and updating the website, The Blogger -

(Shown above, being camera-shy, with the final draft of the new Gratis Knits)

- and I realized something terrible...

We hadn't updated The Blog in over a month.

We're overdue several articles, we know - True Plies about Habu Fique and Rowan Cotton Purelife, gossip from TNNA, No Mean Feet updates - but there's one item we've been intending to bribe our readers with for some time.

A free pattern for the Muffin Cap I made with that Fleece Artist Blue-faced Leicester roving, circa April . Several members of the staff clearly had fun trying on the second cap I made with this pattern:

Sooo, in order to whet your appetite for the next Gratis Knits, below's a free pattern (written by moi and edited by The Blogger). Until our next update, look for the new Gratis Knits (and an exciting KAL announcement) next week!

~*~*~

A Very Basic Muffin Cap
by Sara Morris

Sizes
S (M, L)
Head circumference: 18 (20, 22)”

Materials

• 1 (1, 1) skein Fleece Artist BFL Aran
• US 9 (5.5mm) DPNs, set of 5.
• US 9 (5.5mm) circular needle, 16" long
• US 7 (4.5mm) circular needle, 16" long
• Stitch markers
• Tapestry needle

Gauge:
16 sts & 20 rows = 4” in St st

Abbreviations:

CO Cast on
Kf&b Knit into front and back of st
PM Place marker
Rnd round
St stitch
K knit
SM slip marker
Dec decrease
K2tog knit 2 together (dec one st)
BO bind off

~*~*~

Pip:
Using DPNs, CO 4 sts. Work in i-cord for 4 rows.

Crown increases:
Rnd 1: Kf&b every st (8 sts), PM to indicate start of rnd. Switch to knitting in the rnd by placing 2 sts on each of 4 needles.
Rnd 2: Kf&b every st (16 sts).
Rnd 3: K around.
Rnd 4: *K1, kf&b, PM* around (24 sts).
Rnd 5: K around.
Rnd 6: *K to 1 st before marker, kf&b, SM* across rnd (32 sts). (Note: when there are too many sts to fit on the DPNs, switch to larger circular needle)
Repeat Rnds 5 – 6 another 10 (11, 12) times, until there are 112 (120, 128) sts.

Body:
Continue to knit in the rnd, as established, for another 2 (2.5, 3)”. On last stockinette row, dec 4 (0, 2) sts evenly across for 108 (120, 126) sts.

Brim:
Prep rnd: Using smaller circular needle, *K1, k2tog* around for a total of 72 (80, 84) sts.
Rows 1 – 5: *K1, p1* around.
Row 6: work *K1, p1* BO.

Finishing:
Weave in ends and cinch in pip at top. Block the cap flat, smoothing out the decreases and body. Wear in cool weather!

Gratis Knits: Spring 2008

Baby Court Jester

Size:
Baby-Toddler

Measurements:
15 – 17” head circumference

Materials:

• 1 skein of DK weight yarn (or light worsted)
• 4mm/US size 6 circular needle and dpns, 12” long (or one 32” long circular needle for Magic Loop method) or size needed to obtain gauge
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Pom-pom maker (optional)

Gauge:
24 sts & 28 rows = 4” in St st.

Notes:
I used about 38g of handspun that Fyberduck created for the hat. While we determined it was a light worsted weight yarn, because it was a thick and thin ply, the fabric was a bit too lacy when knit at lower gauges. If you choose to use a commercial yarn for this pattern you will want a fabric that is sturdy but not stiff. The gauge is the most important factor. There is a list of possible substitutions at the bottom of this post but you might find other plump sport-weights or some light worsted-weight yarns work just as well. When in doubt go with a heavier yarn because it will fit a baby at some point in their life.

Abbreviations:

* repeat instructions following the single asterisk as directed
alt alternate
dpn double-point needle
K knit
kfb knit front and back (increase one st)
k2tog knit two stitches together
P purl
pm place marker
rnd(s) round(s)
skp slip, knit, pass stitch over—one stitch decreased
st(s) stitch(es)

I-cord Cast On (á la Ruth Sørenson)

Cast on 5 sts on DPNs or circular needle and k 5 sts. At the end of the row, slide the sts to the other end of the needle and pulling the yarn around the back, k the sts again. You’ve completed one row of Icord.

Continue in this manner, pulling down on the cord occasionally as you go, until the cord is approximately 20” long. Break yarn and thread through the last row of sts, cinching them up tight.

(Now here is the cool part… You may have noticed on one side of the I-cord a slight gap. Some call this gaping a “ladder”. It looks like disaster in a sock, but in this case it is your best friend.)

With your needle pick up K 90 sts creating 1 st in each of the rungs from the ladder starting about 2½ inches from one end of the I-cord. If your sts are off-center when you fold the I-cord in half), do not worry because you can always pull off or add the first few sts at the beginning. Just make sure to end with 90 sts total.

Hat Body (working flat)

Row 1: *kfb, K 19 sts, skp, k 1, k2tog, k 19sts, kfb *. Repeat between the * to the end of the row.

Row 2: P across.

Repeat Rows 1 – 2 once more.

Hat Body (in the round)

Rnd 1: *kfb, K 19 sts, skp, k 1, k2tog, k 19sts, kfb *. Repeat between the * to the end of the row.

Rnd 2: pm to mark start of the rnd and join stitches in the round (being sure not to twist the stitches). K row.

Alt row 1 with a K row until you loose the will to live which, coincidentally, measures about 5” from the I-cord edge.

Dividing the hat into points…

Set up rnd:

K 45, place remaining 45 sts on waste yarn or a stitch holder

Left point:

Fold hat in half with adjustable ties in back, PM, and K the first stitch in the row joining it in the round.

K 3 rnds.

Decrease row: K2tog, K 17 sts, skp, K 1, K2tog, K 18sts, skp, k1. [41 sts remaining]

Continue in this manner by decreasing 4 sts every 4^th rnd, until there are only 5 sts left.

Break yarn and thread through the remaining 5 sts cinching them tight to secure.

Right point:

Return remaining sts to needle(s), PM to mark beginning of rnd, K 4 rows.

Decrease row: K 9 sts, skp, k 1, k2tog, k 17, skp, k1, k2tog K 9. [41 sts remaining]

K three rows

Continue in this manner, decreasing 4 sts every 4^th rnd, until there are only 5 sts left.

Break yarn and thread through the remaining 5 sts cinching them tight to secure.

Finishing:

Weave in ends. Add pompoms to the ends of your hat points or tassels. Decorative buttons are cute too. Go wild; the hat isn’t meant to be serious and the only time one can wear such ridiculousness if they aren’t in the theatre, is under the age of 3 and over the age of 83.

Substitutions:

If you aren't a spinner or can't get your hands on some handspun in an appropriate weight, I suggest giving the following brands a try:

For lots of color Scotia Silk, Great Big Sea, or Blue Faced Leicester DK are nice. Koigu Kersti is a fab choice as well. If you want transitional color, try Migrations, Mitsuri, or Silk Garden. You could try a plain hat too or one with stripes out of Balance or Sublime Yarns Extrafine Merino Wool too.

Gratis Knits: Winter 2008

Intended for incipient designers, Gratis Knits will be a platform for knitters to submit original and unpublished patterns (featuring a yarns and products available for sale at Knit Purl). A selected pattern will be featured in the next season's newsletter and the designer will receive a $50 gift card to the store. The deadline for the Spring 2008 Newsletter will be March 1, 2008. Please submit patterns to info (AT) knit-purl (DOT) com.

Snowdrops Socks

By Sara Morris

SIZES
Women’s XS (S, M, L, XL)

MEASUREMENTS
6.5 (7, 7.5, 8, 8.5)” foot circumference

MATERIALS

• 1 ball Noro Kureyon Sock (shown in color S180)
• set of 5 US 1.5/ 2.5mm 6” DPNs
• tapestry needle
• tape measurer
• 2 stitch markers

GAUGE
8 sts & 12 rows/ 1” in stockinette

NOTES:
This sock is knit from the toe-up.

SNOWDROP LACE INSERT: (worked over 11 sts)

• Row 1: YO, SL2K, YO, K5, YO, SL2K, YO

• Row 2 & all even rows: K11
• Row 3: YO, SL2K, YO, K5, YO, SL2K, YO
• Row 5: K3, YO, SSK, K1, K2TOG, YO, K3
• Row 7: YO, SL2K, YO, K1, YO, SL2K, YO, K1, YO, SL2K, YO
• Row 8: K11

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SOCK

Toe:

Using Turkish CO method; CO 22 sts over 2 DPNS (11 sts per needle) and knit one round. Redistribute stitches as follows: 5 sts on N1, 6 on N2, 5 on N3, and 6 on N4.

• Row 1: *K1, YO, K9, YO, K1* twice

• Row 2: *K1, K1 tbl, K9, K1 tbl, K1* twice
• Row 3: *K1, YO, K11, YO, K1* twice
• Row 4: *K1, K1 tbl, K11, K1 tbl, K1* twice

Continue increasing in this manner (4 sts every other row) until there are 34 sts TOTAL (17 on instep, 17 on sole). On next increase round (odd #’d row):

• K1, YO, K2, PM, work ‘Row 7’ of Snowdrop Lace insert, PM, K2, YO, K2, YO, K15, YO, K1.

On all even rows to follow: *K1, K1 tbl, K to last 2 sts on instep/ sole, K1 tbl, K1* twice. After this row start with Row 1 of Snowdrop Lace insert between the stitch markers.

Continue increasing the toe while working the Snowdrop Lace insert between stitch markers, until there are 50 (54, 58, 62, 66) stitches TOTAL.

Foot:

Work the stitches as established: K7 (8, 9, 10, 11), SM, work Snowdrop Lace insert, SM, K to end of round. Continue in this manner until sock measures 2” less than total foot length OR 7 (7.25, 7.5, 7.75, 8)” from the CO edge. End with an even row.

Heel:

Work across the instep, keeping the Snowdrop Lace insert in pattern. The directions below are for the 25 (27, 29, 31, 33) heel sts on N3 & N4:

• Row 1: K 24 (26, 28, 30, 32), W&T
• Row 2: P 23 (25, 27, 29, 31), W&T
• Row 3: K to next unwrapped st, W&K
• Row 4: P to next unwrapped st, W&T.

Repeat Rows 3 & 4 until there are 11 sts that have not been wrapped. On the next row:

• K11, PU&K the wrap and stitch together, W&T (next st)
• P12, PU&P the wrap and stitch together, W&T
• RS: K to next wrapped st, PU&K the 2 wraps and stitch together, W&T
• WS: P to next wrapped st, PU&P the 2 wraps and stitch together, W&T

Continue in this manner until all stitches and their wraps have been worked. End with a WS row. Turn. K across 25 (27, 29, 31, 33) heel sts. New row starts here.

Leg:

Resume pattern as established in the foot:

• K7 (8, 9, 10, 11), SM, work Snowdrop Lace insert, SM, K to end of round.

Continue in this manner until piece measures approximately 9 (8.75, 8.5, 8.25, 8)" from the base of the heel. By this point the second repeat of the colorway should be close.

Cuff:

Rows 1 - 12: *K1, P1* across.

BO loosely. Work second sock as for first, starting it at the same point in the color repeats as the first if desired. Weave in ends and block.

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ABBREVIATIONS:

CO	Cast on
K	Knit
YO	Yarn over
K tbl	Knit stitch through the back of the loop
SSK	Slip, slip, knit
SL2K	Slip one stitch, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over
K2TOG	Knit 2 together
ST	Stitch
W&T	Wrap the next stitch and turn work
PU & K	Pick up and knit